Date: 04/01/10

Location: Mwanza, Lake Victoria

Miles travelled: 218 miles

Weather: 28ºC

Today we mostly listened to: Queen

We didn't get much sleep last night on account of lying petrified in the tent as a hyenna prowled around Monty and called out to its mates.  In the morning we realised that one of the windows was left open by mistake and he could probably smell all the food we had inside - doh!

We were up again at first light and picked up our guide from the park headquarters.  After initially seeing hippos and giraffe within the first 10 minutes we then spent another hour driving around seeing nothing.  It's a lot harder to see animals in the Serengeti than in the confides of the crater.  We weren't disapointed for long though when we came across a leopard and her baby.  I never expected to see one leopard let alone two!  About 20 mins later we then came upon a pride of lions laying on the road.  We were able to drive right up to them and they weren't bothered at all.  Another treat for the day was to see three baby cheetahs calling for their mother, who eventually returned, having been off to hunt (we think).

We dropped our guide off back at the headquarters at lunch time and started the long drive across the rest of the park to get to the exit (again before our time ran out!).  On the way we noticed a huge amount of ugly flies in Monty which had a particularly nasty bite.  Turns out they were tsetse flies - evil buggers that infect cattle with sleeping sickness.  There were hundreds of them, attracted to Monty because of his large cow-like appearance!  Still we should be grateful to the fly - it makes large areas of Tanzania uninhabitable to cows (and therefore humans) opening up lots of areas for national parks, but the bite bloody hurts!

We were given one last treat before leaving the park - a lone bull elephant standing in the middle of the road as we approached.  We watched him for a while as he happily knocked down trees and devoured everything edible in sight!

On to Mwanza on Lake Victoria and a well earned sleep!

Date: 03/01/10

Location: Pimbi Campsite, The Serengeti

Miles travelled: 278 miles (Moshi to Ngorongoro - 136miles, Ngorongoro to Serengeti - 142miles )

Weather: 28ºC

Today we mostly listened to: Jonathan Strange and Mr. Norrell (it's a really long book)

Yesterday we travelled from Moshi to the Ngorongoro Volcanic Crater to spend a couple of days in search of some big animals.  We arrived at around 3pm and spent a couple of hours driving around on the top of the crater getting some amazing views of the 'eighth wonder of the world' and seeing a few buffalos.  It really is staggeringly beautiful and, thanks to the recent rains, amazingly green.  I have always wanted to visit the crater and it really did live up to all expectations.

We camped at the Simba site on top of the crater and were surprised when the guard told us to park about 50m away from everyone else under a tree, next to some tall grass that was just perfect for hiding a lion or two.  At first we thought maybe one half of the campsite was full and we were simply the first to be sent to start a new camping area.  However, no-one else came to join us, and instead we were left as bait for any hungry animal that decided to wander through the fenceless camp that night.

After a couple of stiff G&T's and just as it got dark, I noticed a distinctly animal-like noise around the camp.  I shone the torch behind Monty and was confronted by around 20 sets of shining eyes looking back at me.  A guard soon approached to inform us that it was a herd of buffalo and that we were camped in their grazing area, brilliant!  Having heard lots of tales of buffalo being one of the most dangerous animals in Africa and even feared by the bravest of Maasai warriors, we decided it prudent to retreat to the safety of our canvas roof tent.  We were awoken throughout the night as the herd grazed peacefully right next to Monty.

We were up at 5am the next day to ensure we could get down in to the crater in time for dawn.  We picked up a guide at the park headquarters and started the descent down.  There was only one way in down a single lane, steep, dirt track.  It had rained slightly in the night, but fortunately it wasn't too slipery.

Within minutes of being in the crater we saw wildlife a plenty - elephants, rhino (black and white), lions, hippos, zebra (see flickr photos for full run-down).  Probably Ric's favourite part of the day was when we stubbled upon a Toyota stuck in the mud and in need of some help - Monty to the rescue again!  We managed to winch them out without too much trouble at all.  We subsequently went on later in the day to help bump start another Land Rover and donate a fuel filter to a vehicle in need.

After a successful morning game drive we left the crater and headed further in to the park to visit Olduvai Gorge - the site of many a great archeological discovery by the late Mary and Louis Leakey.  A personal mecca for me on this trip.  We were able to stand over the gorge and also visit a little museum which contains a replica of the Laetoli footprints (the real ones have been reburied to preserve them).  The footsteps were left by what is thought to be a direct ancestor of Homo sapiens, Australopithecine afarensis, as it walked over some volcanic ash near Olduvai.  I still find it utterly staggering that some prints that were left 3.6 million years ago can be found and put on display (well a replica anyway) in a museum for me to see!

Back in Monty again and we sped as fast as we could on the bad roads to the exit gate of Ngorongoro (you only get 24 hrs in the park) and we were told that if we were late we'd have to pay for another day!  We were late, but we didn't have to pay.  As soon as you leave Ngoro, you enter the Serengeti.  So with The Lion King soundtrack on full blast we trundled along to find our allocated campsite (which was 2 hrs away on a bumpy road).  The Serengeti lived up to expectations and it wasn't long before we saw two lions lazing by the side of the road.

We reached the camping area whilst it was still light.  Again there were no fences and signs warning of animals that would eat you given half the chance.  More G&T's followed to calm the nerves before going to bed at 7.30.  I dont think I have done that since I was a child.

Date: 01/01/10
Location: Bristol Cottages, Moshi
Miles travelled: 23 miles
Weather: 32ºC
Today we mostly listened to: Tanzanian Wedding Music

On New Year's Eve we drove the short distance from Marangu to Moshi as we had an invitation from Pim and Git to join them at the Tanzanian/Dutch wedding of Git's cousin.  Actually it wasn't the actual wedding - that happens on Jan 2nd and to which 400 guests are invited!  This was a pre-wedding celebration where the bride was officially given over to the grooms family.  However it felt like a full on wedding - with around 80 guests, a lavish BBQ and drinks and many different ceremonies going on.  It really was a wonderful experience to see.  Thanks to Selma and Ngomy (the bride and groom) for letting us come along.  The highlights included:

1) The ceremony where the groom (Ngomy) entered with his family singing and dancing in the Southern Tanzanian traditional way

2) The 'finding the bride part' - Selma had to hide under some blankets, along with some of her bridesmaids and the family of Ngomy had to guess which one Selma was.  Every time they guested incorrectly they had to pay a 'fine' to the brides family

3) The father of the brides speech - which was very touching and lovely

4) The part where an 80 year old Tanzanian woman rolled around on the floor in front of Selma's parents as a mark of respect - I'm sure it wasn't meant to be, but it was quite a funny sight

5) Et, the dog, having diarorhea all over Ric's one pair of smart trousers and shirt - v.funny for Charlie, less so for Ric

6) Drunken Git at the end of the evening

7) The African-style firework display - fireworks being set-off in all directions with complete disregard for safety - brilliant fun though!

8) Meeting yet more lovely Dutchies, including Git's mum - I think Holland will feel like our second home by the time we return to Europe

9) Eating buffalo satay sticks at 3am

We also got to see little Et again - who isn't so little anymore.  He is eating, pooing, peeing and growing a lot.  Pim and Git have decided to take him with them all the way on to South Africa and back to Holland with them - that is one lucky African street dog!  Many Africans think they are mad as 'he is just a dog', but we all disagree and love him to pieces.

So this morning, as you can imagine, we had slightly sore heads and breath that smelt like bum.  We managed to rouse ourselves for lunch though, meeting Pim and Janine (Git's mum) in Moshi for a bite to eat.  Git joined us later after she had finished at the rehearsal for the wedding tomorrow.  We had an amazing curry and slowly started to feel human again.

We were about to leave when we had a lovely surprise as a red Toyota pulled up and Alex and Joost (the dutchies we met back in Aswan) got out.  Quite the little reunion.  They told us all their tales of what they have been up to since we last saw them in Sudan.....watch the following video to see something amazing.    It is in Dutch so you may not understand it, but the general plot goes like this..... they went to the Omo Valley in Ethiopia, got stuck in the mud, couldn't get out, had to walk 4 hours in the dark to the park headquarters with just a flash light and knife to protect them from lions and hyennas, after two days they got out!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcsVSQIoZYA
All we say is......'where was the Land Rover to pull out the Landcruiser when you needed it!'.

Unfortunately we only got to spend a couple of hours with them as they are heading East to the coast and we now go West up to the Serengeti (where they have just come from).  Hopefully we will see them again further South in Malawi.

Date: 30/12/09

Location:Marangu Hotel, Marangu

Miles travelled: 362 miles over two days (Dar to Silver Sands - 25miles, Silver Sands to Kilimanjaro - 337miles )

Weather: 28ºC (but cooler at night again)

Today we mostly listened to: Jonathan Strange and Mr Norrel audiobook

We headed back over from Zanzibar to Dar the day after Boxing Day.  Just before leaving the lodge we discovered a scorpion in the bathroom, which Ric subsequently squashed.  Immediately it was surrounded by a million ants who efficiently removed the corspe within about 15 mins!

We got back to the mainland at about 4 and headed back to Mikadi Beach and the roof tent.  After several nights in the lodge it was a bit of a struggle to get back in to the sandy, baking hot tent again.  After another restless nights sleep, we packed up and headed in to Dar to visit the Landrover garage again.  We had the exhaust fixed and also changed the alternator to a brand new one - hopefully Monty will charge the fridge a little quicker now as this one pushes 100amps rather than the standard 65amps.

We spent most of the day wandering around Dar waiting for the garage to finish.  We had lunch in a very nice place - Chefs Place I think it was called.  Dar has quite a laid-back feel to it - probably because it so stifflingly hot and humid that no-one walks around fast.  Ric has been on a mission for about 2 weeks now to find a gas lamp for us to use.  Despite asking everywhere and seeing them used all over the place we seem to be unable to buy one anywhere.  There doesn't even seem to be a swahili word for it.  The search goes on.

At about 4 we managed to get away from the garage and decided to drive a little out of Dar so we could avoid the traffic the next day.  We ended up staying on the Northern side of the city in a resort/campsite next to the sea called Silver Sands, a bit run down but habitable.  Unable to face another sandy experience in the tent we forked out for an air-conditioned room.  We had the best nights sleep in ages!

We drove the next day the long long 9 hour drive to Marangu - a town in the foothills of Kilimangaro - with one thing in mind, a cool breeze.  We absolutely love being next to the Indian Ocean, but the humid heat is unbearable at times.  The drive was a beautiful one, through lush vegeatation and, apart from a 60km stretch of dirt, on tarred roads.  We stopped for lunch at what looked like a very popular service station.  For around £3 each we had a big lunch of rice, noodles, chicken, another meat (probably goat) and veg - yum!

We arrived in Marangu and found a rather nice campsite which gets a view of Kili in the morning around 6am (after that it clouds over).  A very colonial supper of roast chicken, potatoes and cauliflower followed with white table cloths and napkins.  We even managed to get a cheese course at the end!  Several bottles of 'Safari' and 'Serengeti' followed.  Despite searching we still couldn't find a gas lamp today.

We awoke this morning and managed to get a good view of the snow-capped peak of the mountain.  We investigated about the cost of climbing to the top and we're completely horrified to discover that we'd be looking at around $1700 EACH for a 6-day climb.  Thanks, but no thanks.  Instead we decided to do a walk around the foothills and to the waterfall at Marangu - substantially cheaper and less exhaustive.

Our guide, Benedict, was a lovely chap who walked us through a Chugga (the local tribe) village and to two waterfalls.  We saw an assortment of plants and wildlife, including a chamellion (is that how you spell it?).  At the second waterfall we bumped in to a wedding party having some photographs done before the ceremony.  The bride looked about 15 years old and Benedictt explained that her family will have probably selected her husband for her - hope they picked a good one!

We also heard all about the legend of how the waterfall got its name.  Apparently a local girl tried to throw herself off it in a suicide attempt after falling pregnant out of wed-lock.  She chickened out at the last-minute though and as she turned away she got eaten by a leopard.  How awful!  The morale of the story seemed to be though, from what I read, that this was because she couldn't escape her fate after her fornication. Still, could have been worse, another punishment for fornicators was apparently to be speared to the ground and left there to die.  Isn't Sharia law just lovely!

The good news for today is that we finally found a gas lamp.  The bad news is that I left it by the wheel of Monty and Ric drove over it - Doh!  Ric got the rage, I laughed.

I also promised to put Benedict's details up on the site, he's a very good guide, speaks good English and is a nice chap worth emailing him if you're visiting Kilimanjaro: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Date: 26/12/09
Location:Unguja Lodge, Kiminkaze Beach, Zanzibar
Miles travelled: 0 miles
Weather: 32ºC (with a bit of tropical rain)
Today we mostly listened to: The clicking sound of dolphins

So the tropical paradise we've been in the last few days has felt completely non-christmas like - and absolute bliss!  Yesterday Sue and I went snorkling whilst the boys went diving on a reef very close to where we are staying.  By all accounts it wasn't the best diving/snorkling we've done, but nevertheless it was a very enjoyable way to spend xmas day and I'm happy to report the sea was lovely and warm.

Christmas dinner consisted of a choice of turkey or seafood.  In an effort to make myself feel a little christmassy I ordered the turkey - I really should have questioned this as I haven't seen any turkeys on Zanzibar - in fact I haven't seen a turkey since leaving Europe.  So we weren't hugely surprised when the waiter came over and said 'chicken' as he put my plate down.  A little white lie there I think - but it was very tasty so I didn't really care.

We've also seen quite a lot of wildlife on the island, including Red Colobus Monkeys, which are only found on Zanzibar.  I think one even got in to the lodge earlier today and deposited a little brown present next to our bed.  I dont know what it is about primates and shit with us - whilst on a trip to Bornea a few years ago some wild oragutans actually went one step further and threw their poo at us.  Bloody charming.  As well as monkeys we've also seen lots of lizards and also these rat-like creatures that have incredibly long noses.

However the 'best wildlife prize' on Zanzibar has to go to the Dolphins that we swam with today.  We were extremely fortunate that at about 11 this morning a pod was swimming very close to our Lodge.  The nice chap from the dive school told us to grab some snorkels and fins and jump in the boat.  We motored across and found them very quickly.  We then proceeded to spend over an hour in the water with them.  Frankly I would have been happy to see a couple in the murky distance, but what we got was so much better.  There were around 25-30 in total, all different sizes, swimming all around us.  One particularly frisky one even had his manhood (dolphinhood?) out and was desperately trying to mate with another one.  They would swim below us and every few minutes all come up to the surface together to take another breath. 

We had heard reports of the dolphin trips being very hit and miss with many people telling us that you sometimes get 20 tourist boats around them scaring the crap out of them.  Happily this wasn't our experience as we were the only group in the water with them most of the time and they didn't seem bothered by us at all.  I think we were incredibly lucky.

Ric and I also took a walk in to the village close to our lodge this afternoon.  Kiminkaze is a lovely little place with extremely friendly residents.  At one point we had two little boys (about 3 years old) come up to us, grab our hands and walk all through the village with us.  It was extremely cute.  We must have looked like Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt - apart from we're both better looking obviously!

So tonight is our last night here and we'll be very sad to see Pops Mc and Sue go.  We'll go back to Dar tomorrow to pick up Monty before we say goodbye to the Indian Ocean and head 'up-country' (I love that phrase!) to the Serengeti for, hopefully, some more wildlife spotting.

Tips for Kenya

1) Petrol is cheaper in Ethiopia

2) There are good places to get Landrovers (and other vehicles) fixed in Nairobi.  There is a workshop at Jungle Junction - speak to the owner Chris and we also heard about another one called Schmachers - which we had heard good and bad things about

3) You can pretty much get anything in Nairobi - ATM's work, you can sort out car insurance (the comesa) and get medicine etc etc.

4) The guys at Jungle Junction will tell you where to get the insurance for Kenya and the comesa (which covers you for East and Southern Africa) - it takes about 24 hrs to arrange

4) Relatively speaking Kenya is quite expensive and we noticed a big difference from Ethiopia in living costs